Sailing Through The Panama Canal

 An Adventure in Line Handling Our adventure started on Wednesday, March 4th at Shelter Bay Marina, near Colon. We arrived and boarded our friends Trawler Yacht, Jireh, around 6 PM for a transit of the canal the following day.

The Jireh needed 4 line handlers for the transit of the Panama Canal. Since professional line handlers cost $65/day, the Borthwick’s asked if we’d be interested in being line handlers.

In a word, “YES”. The cost for the Jireh to transit the canal was $2,250 plus $450 to anchor overnight in Gatun Lake.  Also, the length and tonnage of the Jireh required us to have a licensed pilot on board. Smaller crafts have an advisor only, on board.

Thursday afternoon we spent 2 hours going over what was expected from us as “Line Handlers”. Brent had us practice tying off the line on the cleat while he pulled on the line from the dock.  When I considered the tonnage of the boat, the 300’ stern line, having to catch the “Monkey Claw” and then tie it to our stern line (what the heck is a half hitch or a bowline knot?), plus keeping the line tight or slacking it off (but not too tight or too slack) as we go up or down in the locks.  I got really nervous and I was ready to pay for a professional line handler and go home.  But Dwight convinced me that I could do it (yah right!)

We were scheduled to start our Canal transit at the Gatun Locks late Thursday afternoon, overnight in the lake and completing the transit the next day.  Our rendezvous with the pilot was at 4:45 PM Thursday and just after we left Shelter Bay Marina, I realized that I am a “Fair Weather Sailor Only”.  It was my turn to make dinner and between the swells and some chop, I was soon heading for the medicine cabinet to get some Dramamine.  

As we approached the Gatun Locks we were informed that there would be a freighter, an ACP tug, a 124’ yacht, the Jireh and a catamaran all in the same lock.  Our pilot decided that we would “nest” with the ACP tug and the catamaran.  The freighter was first in the chamber followed by the 124’ yacht. Next the tug and then we came along side the tug and threw & tied our bow and stern lines to the tug. Last, the catamaran came along side us and tied up to our boat.  In each of the three Gatun Locks we would do the same procedure. Move in, tie up, go up, untie, move out to the next lock and repeat the process again.

By the time we started the locks it was dark. It was also raining and extremely windy.  Brent, our very capable and experienced Captain, needed all his expertise to maneuver the vessel through the turbulence of the salt & fresh water mixing in the first lock, the wind and the other boats.  But it was done professionally and without incident. About 15 min. into Gatun Lake we anchored in a small bay for the night and an ACP tug came to pick up our pilot.

The next morning we awoke to the cacophony of Howler Monkeys on an island located off our port side.  Anchored near us are 3 small sailboats and the 124’ yacht that went through the locks with us yesterday. Our pilot arrived at 7:30 AM and we were under way at 8:05 AM, heading South East for our time slot of 11:50 at Pedro Miguel. 

There is a lot of construction on the canal. We pass an island that is in the process of being removed and in Gillard Cut near the Centenario Bridge there are plastic pipes on the shore ready for dynamite, while a few yards further on, the area has already been blasted.  On our journey we pass container ships, dry bulk carriers, oil tankers, auto carriers, yachts, plus one cruise ship. I am sure we are now a part of many cruise ship passenger’s vacation picture albums.
 
Once in the Pedro Miguel Lock and we “nested” with the Canal and Bay Tourist vessel the “Pacific Queen”.  We were about 5 feet away from the passengers on the boat and enjoyed a time of conversation with several of them. One couple was from our hometown of Kelowna, British Columbia. 

Between 11 AM and 2 PM is the time the Canal traffic flow changes direction. Before 11 AM it’s Pacific to Atlantic, and after 2 PM it’s Atlantic to Pacific. Since there were no large vessels waiting to go through the lock, we had to wait for 45 minutes until two small sailboats and a catamaran arrive at the Pedro Miguel chamber.

Finally, we saw the sailboats coming under the Centenairo Bridge, followed closely by a container ship.  In Pedro Miguel Lock we are lowered 31 feet in one step to Miraflores Lake, a small artificial body of water a mile wide that separates the Pedro Miguel & Miraflores Locks.  We tie up again with the Pacific Queen in both chambers of the Miraflores locks, so my anxiety over being a line handler through the canal had not been very stressful at all.  The final leg of the Canal passage was to motor to the Flamingo Marina at the end of the Amador Causeway. 

While we maneuvered just outside the marina, waiting for our turn to dock, we circled a huge yacht that I “Googled” when I got home. The name of the yacht was the Pelorus. It is the world's fourteenth largest luxury yacht at 377 feet 3 inches (115 metres) in length, with a price tag of US-$300 million (254 Million Euros). It is owned by Russian billionaire Roman Abramovich (the owner of British football club Chelsea FC). Very impressive.

All in all, the trip was an experience that I will treasure for many years: good friends, new experiences and lots of interesting stuff going on while traveling one of the 7 modern wonders of the world.