Santeria en Panama
During the days of slave trading, Nigerian slaves brought to the Caribbean were forced to accept the Catholic religion. While outwardly becoming Catholic, secretly they never stop practicing their old traditional rites and fused their ancestral spirits and deities (orishas) with the most venerated Catholic saints. This fused religious tradition took a strong root in Cuba and spread from there to different countries in the Americas and evolved into what is now known as Santeria.
In Panama, a country where people predominately believe in Jesus Christ, Santeria is practiced by people looking for a way to be successful. Be it in money, love, career, family. For many Panamanians, Santeria provides a hope for a better life or an easement from problem that plague. It is of interest to note thatSanteria is prohibited by the Catholic Church for having occult roots.
To learn more about the practice of Santeria in Panama, I went to visit Clarita, a spiritualist in Panama City, who owns an esoteric shop called ‘Esoterica y Ventas Clarita’. Clarita is a third level Santero, the highest level a woman can obtain. Her shop is located on Calle 12 in Santa Ana, next to Café Coca Cola. It is run by Clarita and her sister Maylú. On entering the dim lit shop, I was surrounded by candles, statues of catholic saints and other strange deities. Esoteric goods, largely made by Clarita and Maylú is sold in the lower level of the two level store. Upstairs, the sisters have private consulting rooms.
People come to Clarita with the intention to improve their lot in life. Better health, more money, success in love, a good job. Using tobacco, tarot cards and snail shells, Clarita and her sister are able to look into the past, the present and the future. They can even tell if someone is under the evil influence of witchcraft. Depending on the desired results, Clarita and her sister would prescribe a method to improve the situation. This can be taking a bath, drinking a potion or tea, or wearing an amulet. Sometimes the prescription could involve being cleansed with animal blood and the smoke from plants.
The store is busy. Today like most days Clarita and Maylú will attend to over 70 people looking for relief from life’s burdens. Their clients come from all social classes. Even though Santeria is forbidden by the Catholic Church, Clarita says her most frequent clients are Catholics. Many Panamanian Catholics go to church, pray to God and ask for special favors from the saints, but the Orishas (Santeria spirits) can help them with better luck and protect them from evil. Clarita says Santeria can help people, but insists that one of the most important elements is faith.
I asked Clarita how one becomes a Santero. She tells me that one must first find a Santero elder to perform an initiation ceremony called, ‘Asiento’. In this ceremony the neophyte is purified and given an Elekes, or necklace, for protection from evil that represents all the Orishas. A link is then established with an Orisha (Santero spirit) who will rule the new Santero’s life.
Once a person has been initiated into Santeria, they can ascend in the hierarchical structure of the religion. The highest priest of Santeria is called the Babalao, who can solve problems lesser Santeros cannot. The position of Babalao can only be attained by men.
Clarita explains that not all Santeros attend to other people but opt to only benefit themselves.
Esoterica y Ventas Clarita opens at 7am. However, people line up for a consultation as early as 5am. There are often arguements about who turn it is. If you decide to go, ask the people waiting in line who is the last person to be attended. A consultation costs $5. Both sisters start attending people from 8:00am to 12:00pm and from 2:00pm to 5:00pm.The store is closed Wednesdays and Sundays. Esoterica y ventas claritas number is 262-5126, 262-3022.